Mazda 626

1991-1998 of release

Repair and car operation



Mazda 626

+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engines
+ 4. Heating and ventilation
+ 5. Fuel system
+ 6. Exhaust system
+ 7. Transmissions
+ 8. Coupling and semi-axes
+ 9. Brake system
+ 10. Running gear
- 11. Body
   11.1. Introduction
   11.2. Maintenance and body repair
   11.3. Vinyl furnish
   11.4. Repair of insignificant damages of a body
   11.5. Repair of considerable damages of a body
   11.6. Loops and locks
   11.7. Replacement of a windshield and neostarting-up glasses
   11.8. Replacement front grilles (Mazda 626 model)
   11.9. Cowl
   11.10. Bumpers - removal and installation
   11.11. Forward wing
   11.12. The plastic panel before a windshield
   11.13. Panel of furnish of a door
   11.14. Doors
   11.15. Door lock, drum of the lock and handle
   11.16. Door glass
   11.17. Window regulator mechanism
   11.18. Rear-view mirrors
   11.19. Trunk lid (Mazda 626 and MX-6 models)
   11.20. Lock and drum of the lock of a trunk lid (Mazda 626 and MX-6 model)
   11.21. Ropes of opening of a cover of a luggage carrier / zaslonka of a fuel tank
   11.22. Back door (Ford Probe models)
   11.23. Lock of a back door and drum of the lock (Ford Probe model)
   11.24. Basic racks of a back door / trunk lid (model Ford Probe, MX-6)
   11.25. Central console
   11.26. Panels of furnish of the dashboard
   11.27. Casing of a steering column
   11.28. Dashboard
   11.29. Sitting
+ 12. Electric equipment
+ 13. Electroschemes
+ 14. Good advice



11.2. Maintenance and body repair

GENERAL INFORMATION

The condition in which there is a body of your car, is very important, because its cost depends on it in big degree at resale. It is much more difficult to repair the started or damaged body, than mechanical parts. The hidden cavities of a body, such as niches of wheels, a frame and a motor compartment are also important not less in spite of the fact that they do not demand frequent attention, as other parts of a body.

Once a year, or each 20 000 km, the body bottom by means of steam is very useful to clear. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed, and after this area it will be possible to check on existence of the rust, the damaged brake highways, the worn-out electric wires, the damaged ropes and so on. At the end of this work it is necessary to grease components of a forward suspension bracket.

At the same time clear the engine and a motor compartment by means of a paroochistitel or the adaptation for greasing removal.

The special attention is necessary for turning on niches of wheels as the substrate can exfoliate, both stones and the dirt, thrown out by wheels, can damage paint and allow to appear to a rust. If you found a rust, smooth out the damaged surface to the metal and put on it anticorrosive paint.

It is necessary to wash a body, at least, once a week. Carefully wet the car to soften dirt, and then wash away it by means of a soft sponge and a large amount of soap water. If carefully not to wash away dirt, it can erase paint.

Spots of tar or bitumen are necessary for clearing by means of a fabric moistened in solvent.

At least, each six months polish a body and the chromeplated details. If you use a cleaner for the chromeplated parts to remove a rust from details with an electrodeposit, remember that the cleaner also deletes honor of chrome so use it carefully.